On my final evening in Paris before heading home from my annual Champagne coverage, I met with our new critic and contributor, Kate Janecek, for dinner at Benjamin Schmitt in the 9th arrondissement. Originally from Toronto and now based in Bordeaux, Kate will be covering the Loire Valley and Chablis for JebDunnuck.com. Recommended by several of her Parisian friends for its exceptional wine list, Benjamin Schmitt felt like the perfect place to unwind after two busy weeks in Champagne.
The dining room is bright, open, and airy, and despite the warm July evening, the open windows and circulating fans made for a comfortable setting to linger over dinner. Service was polished yet relaxed throughout the evening. Kate and I shared every course, and each dish arrived individually plated for us, a thoughtful touch that reflected the restaurant’s attention to detail. The staff struck that difficult balance of always being present and available, while never once feeling intrusive or hovering over the table.
The wine program is a destination in itself, with more than 900 references spanning everything from approachable bottles to mature vintages and rare finds. On a warm summer evening, we opted for something with a bit more alpine freshness, opening with the 2023 Domaine des Ardoisières Argile Blanc from Savoie before moving to the 2022 Méo-Camuzet Chambolle-Musigny Les Charmes with the lamb. We agreed the Rhône section of the list would have to wait until a future visit with Jeb.
The tomato tart was one of my favorite dishes of the meal. Peak-season tomatoes took center stage alongside delicately smoked sardines, an herb sorbet, and exceptionally flaky pastry. The sorbet brought a refreshing contrast to the dish, but I found myself enjoying it even more as it slowly softened, allowing its herbal notes to open and integrate with the tomatoes and smoked fish. That may have been due, in part, to two weeks of tasting the high-acid wines of Champagne, which had left my teeth a bit more sensitive to icy temperatures than they otherwise would have been.
The Cacio e Pepe Agnolotti, although shaped more like a caramelle than a traditional agnolotti, was decadently satisfying but also light on its feet. The rich filling was lifted by bright summer vegetables that kept the dish fresh and vibrant. The albacore tuna crudo also deserves mention. Crudo has become ubiquitous on restaurant menus, but this version stood a step above the crowd. The pristine fish, subtle apricots, toasted almonds, and restrained touches of jalapeño came together effortlessly in a dish driven as much by texture as flavor. Throughout the meal, there was a thoughtful interplay of textures, temperatures, and clean, vibrant flavors that never felt overworked. While every dish stood confidently on its own, the wines completed them and, as is so often the case with great meals, became the secret ingredient at the table. We loved the bottles we chose, but with a list this deep, it would have been just as easy to head in several different directions and be equally rewarded.
The Pyrenean lamb paired naturally with the Chambolle-Musigny, while desserts continued the restaurant’s restrained philosophy. The warm Tanzanian chocolate mousse was my favorite of the two, deeply chocolate-driven yet remarkably airy and not-too-sweet, while the Madagascar Bourbon vanilla dessert offered a lighter finish with just enough sweetness to close the meal.
We finished with Chartreuse Liqueur de Foudre 147, a blend of green and yellow Chartreuse aged in a single barrel, as well as David et Arnaud Lavantureux’s Framboise L’Aventure, a fitting final pour from Chablis. It was the perfect way to close out my time in France, and I look forward to returning the next time I’m in Paris.
Benjamin Schmitt Restaurant
41-43 Rue Catherine de La Rochefoucauld
75009 Paris, France
Website: https://schmittrestaurant.fr
Hours: Tuesday–Saturday, 12:00–2:00 p.m. & 7:00–10:00 p.m.
Phone: +33 1 42 81 00 17
Domaine Des Ardoisières 2023 Cuvee Argile Blanc Vin Des Allobroges $NA White 92
Coming from Saint-Pierre-de-Soucy in Savoie, the 2023 Cuvée Argile Blanc pours a bright straw-yellow hue and is a refreshing blend of Jacquère, Chardonnay, and Mondeuse Blanche. It opens with notes of lime leaf, alpine herbs, white peach, fresh white flowers, and bright saline minerality. Medium-bodied, it has a refined glycerin texture, refreshing acidity, and a crystalline saline character that carries through the mouthwatering finish. Drinking beautifully now, it overdelivers and should hold up nicely over the coming 5-7 years. Drink 2026-2032.
Meo-Camuzet Frere & Soeurs 2022 Chambolle-Musigny 1Er Cru Les Charmes Chambolle Musigny $NA Red 92
The 2022 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes pours a saturated red hue and comes from Méo-Camuzet’s négociant range. It offers fruit-driven aromas of cranberries, ripe red plum, fresh earth, and dewy floral notes. Approachable and medium to full-bodied, with ripe tannins, modest acidity, and an even finish, it’s a solid offering that shows more immediacy while retaining good freshness from this vintage characterized by heat and drought. Drink 2026-2034.