One of the more muscular, concentrated 2022s in my tastings, the 2022 Château Larcis Ducasse sports a deep ruby/plum hue to go with serious aromatics of ripe red and black cherries, smoked tobacco, new leather, truffle, and an incredible sense of crushed stone-like minerality. Rich, full-bodied, and massively concentrated on the palate, this intense, flawlessly balanced, voluptuous 2022 has a stacked mid-palate, velvety tannins, and fabulous length on the finish. I wouldn't be surprised to see this close down with 3-4 years of bottle age only to re-emerge after a decade. Based on 86% Merlot and 14% Cabernet Franc raised in 40% new oak, this modern-day legend has a terrific pH of 3.48 and an alcohol of 14.8%.
View full postPouring a jeweled ruby red color, the 2021 Chianti Classico Riserva Le Vigne is superb from start to finish. On the nose, it opens to aromas of wild raspberries, fresh thyme, rhubarb, and rosy perfume. The palate is energetic and has a core of ripe fruit propelling through its long finish, with well-defined tannins and savory mouthwatering accents framing the wine and salty and herbaceous notes lingering on the palate. A stunning Riserva, this is a selection of the estate’s best Sangiovese from three different vineyards (Vigna Istine, Vigna Casanova dell'Aia, and Vigna Cavarchione), raised for two years in 30-hectoliter barrels. It’s worth stashing some away to check back in on over the next 15 years. 4,000 bottles were produced.
View full postA new wine in the range, the 2023 Chardonnay Mt. Pajaro comes from a site owned by Rhys in the Santa Cruz Mountains, close to Trout Gulch and plated with meter-by-meter spacing and curated clusters. This wine boasts a shade deeper yellow hue and is savory with aromas of bright fantastic reduction (feels like Burgundy), dark stones, beeswax, green apples, and white pineapples, as well as savory and mineral notes. This would be a great wine to throw into a blind tasting with a great white Burgundy. It’s medium to full-bodied, with a silky, profound, stony texture, a note of lemon oil, and pristine clarity. Just when I think these whites can't get better, this is clearly one of the best white wines from Ceritas. Drink over the coming 20 years.
The team from Ceritas are continuing to push the bar steadily higher, never resting on their laurels. The 2023 range from them is not to be missed.
View full postA reflective red color, the 2021 Barolo Aleste leads with compelling and introspective notes of sandalwood, ripe cherries, hints of truffle, and fresh leather. The palate is supple and has a vibrant spine of acidity, mouthwatering mineral accents, and an underlying noble structure. As I am finding with the top producers in this vintage, the tannins demand time but also have a sweetness to them that makes the wines highly pleasurable to taste now, and they should improve and age very well. Drink 2027-2050.
View full postAwesome levels of blackcurrants, darker cherries, roasted herbs, chocolate, and scorched earth all emerge from the 2022 Château Malartic-Lagravière, an incredibly concentrated, rich, layered beauty that has velvety tannins, a deep, layered mid-palate, and a blockbuster finish. It's easily the finest I've tasted from this château and is a riveting 2022 that deserves 4-6 years in the cellar and will keep for two decades or more. The 2022 is based on 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, with the élevage spanning 20 months in 60% new French oak. There are a little over 8,000 cases of this brilliant wine.
View full postThe 2023 Syrah Papa's Block takes things to the next level, and for lovers of Northern Rhône Syrah, this is going to be one to snap up, as it’s reminiscent of Cornas. Pouring an inky purple/black color, the nose has notes of black pepper, pancetta, dark pure plum liqueur, lavender perfume, and woody earth. Full-bodied, it offers outstanding noble structure and balance, with a long-lasting finish. It’s fantastic now, but it’s going to reward those who wait a few years. Drink 2027-2047.
Mike Officer’s 2023s are exceptional and should not be missed. Backed by his decades-long dedication to seeking out and championing exceptional sites and farmers, these wines deliver hedonistic pleasure and intellectual curiosity in spades. Not to mention, they far overdeliver for the price points.
View full postFrom a field blend of estate centenary vineyards planted between 1908 and 1948 to mostly Tempranillo, with some Garnacha and Albillo Mayor, the 2023 spent 14 months in new French oak after fermenting in barrel. Medium-bodied, the limestone soils give it acidity and tension, a concentrated framework around which smoky dark fruit, cacao nib, meat, and garrigue build depth and layers of intensity. This is drinking incredibly now but should be beyond amazing for a solid 10-15 years, if not more. A fantastic entry into Francisco Barona’s canon, it’s an inspiring testament to the power of old vines under the right care.
View full postSpicy in black plum, clove, and cinnamon, the 2022 Bonarda Single Vineyard La Esperanza is smooth and silky on the palate, the tannins nicely integrated and cohesive. The finish is long and complete, and the wine should age well another 10-12 years.
Translating as “The Enemy,” this is a partnership between winemaker Alejandro Vigil and Adrianna Catena, a historian and sister of Laura and Ernesto (daughter of Nicolas). Started in 2008, two of the primary focuses are Cabernet Franc and Bonarda, in addition to Malbec and many other varieties, including stellar whites. Every bottle carries the quote, “At the end of the journey, we remember only one battle: the one we fought against ourselves, the one that defined us.”
View full postFrom the original block of Baron’s first commercial modern vineyard in what he calls The Stones, planted in silty loam and basalt cobblestones in 1997, the 2023 Viognier Cailloux Vineyard is basket pressed, fermented 10 months in concrete and stainless steel, and fully malolactic. It has dimension to its complex, light-bodied layers of fresh, focused refinement, with beautiful phenolics and aromatics, a mix of mineral, white flower, jasmine, crisp apricot, and white peach. Drink now and over the next 10 years.
View full postAn undeniable star in Margaux, the 2022 Château Brane-Cantenac checks in as a blend of 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 1% each Cabernet Franc, Carménère, and Petit Verdot. This deep purple-hued beauty offers up a sensational perfume of darker currants and cassis that gives way to more floral, spicy oak and graphite nuances with air. With flawless overall balance, ripe, velvety tannins, terrific purity, and a great finish, this riveting Brane-Cantenac already offers pleasure, yet I wouldn't be surprised to see this firm up with 4-5 years of bottle age, only to reemerge later and drink beautifully for 30+ years. It's one of the truly greats in the appellation, and readers will love to have this beauty in the cellar.
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