This latest Up From The Cellar is another hodgepodge of wines spanning from mature Bordeaux to newly released Vintage Port.
New Ridge Releases
This article includes a number of newly released 2022s from Ridge as well as some 2021s. In addition, it contains a review of the controversial 2020 Monte Bello. Unfortunately, I do feel this wine was negatively affected by the wildfires in the vintage, but as the note says, it’s far from some of the smoke-tainted monstrosities that can be found in the vintage. Nevertheless, it’s also far cry from a great Monte Bello and shows clear smoke influence. Interestingly, I didn’t find any signs of smoke taint in the 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate when I tasted it at the end of last year. This is just another side of the insidious nature of smoke taint and another reason to simply avoid wines from these vintages. On a brighter note, the article includes a mini vertical of Monte Bello back to 2015 and a bevy of brilliant 2021s and 2022s.
Quinto Do Noval
I was able to taste not only the newly released Fortified Ports from Quinto Do Noval but also a number of their dry reds, all of which are noteworthy. Looking at the 2022 Vintage Ports, these are from a scorching hot vintage, yet the wines are magical, with deep, rich textures and beautiful tannins and structure. The 2022 Vintage Port is upfront, sexy, and already impossible to resist, while the Nacional is much more concentrated, focused, and structured. It’s going to go down as one of the legendary examples of this cuvée.
Avennia
I’ve taken a quick look at the 2014s from this great estate in Washington State. I’ve recently been able to do a number of retrospectives of Washington Bordeaux blends, and I continue to be amazed at how well these wines evolve. Now at 10 years after the vintage, these are still youthful and lively, with ample prime drinking ahead of them.
Matt Morris Wines
Charbono aficionado Matt Morris continues to show that Napa Valley isn’t a one-trick pony and can make incredible reds from other varieties. While the focus is on his newly released 2021s, I was also able to retaste two 2016s, both of which have lived up to their early billing.
Fess Parker
Staying with the California theme, I was able to sit down with Fess Parker’s president Tim Snider and winemaker Blair Fox to taste through a handful of older vintages, focusing on their Ashley’s Vineyard in the Sta. Rita Hills. Both the 2011 and 2007 of their Pinot Noir Ashley’s Vineyard are drinking beautifully, and this tasting just confirms the longevity and age-ability of wines from Santa Barbara County.
Cheval Des Andes
This project between Château Cheval Blanc and Argentina’s Terrazas de los Andes continues to produce absolute world-class wines, and their latest 2021 is easily the finest vintage I’ve tasted. There’s a clear Bordeaux influence here (although 2021 was a cooler vintage), bringing not only concentration and texture but flawless balance and a remarkable sense of elegance.
Miscellaneous
Lastly, the report includes a handful of Bordeaux, including two blockbuster 2009s, Château Angélus and Château Lynch-Bages, a fully mature 1985 Château Lafite, and a great bottle of Château Margaux’s 1989, just to name a few.
All said, this article includes close to 120 wines and 45 different producers. Thanks for reading, and happy hunting.
Jeb